We do a fair amount of revolver work here and I have always used a flat ended rifle action wrench if the barrel needs to come off, however it is heavy and cumbersome and not ideally suited to the lighter frames of the revolver so time to design and build one for myself.
Designing a revolver frame wrench is not exactly rocket science and in its simplest form it is just a length of metal with another bit that can be bolted to it and the frame is sandwiched between the two parts, usually with a bolt through the trigger loop and above the top strap and maybe one in the middle.
Of course the spacing for the bolts does tend to vary from model to model which is something to incorporate into a universal design. Also I wanted the ability to add shaped spacers for unusual things and it needed a comfortable grip.
A few minutes on the computer and a concept had been created. I tend to use Sketchup quite a lot for simple 2D designs such as this as I can export them as a DXF file for the CNC machine albeit in a vastly simplified form as the CNC I use only understands profiles and only across one edge. Incidentally, Sketchup is still free to download and use in the basic version and this does include full 3D modelling and it is incredibly easy to use.
With the material cut to length it was popped into the machine. You will notice I am not using a steady and there is a fair lump of material extending from the chuck that is not being machined. The reason for this stick out is very simple, the machine is currently set-up with a collet chuck which will only accept a maximum of 26,0mm diameter material. I could have swapped to the 3 jaw however my back is not great right now so I opted to machine a 25,0mm tenon on one end using the smaller lathe and then into this one for profiling.
One issue with profiling without a steady over such a length is chatter and I ran the finish cuts at 1750 rev/minute as it seemed to give the best result.
Next job was back into the small lathe (Colchester Chipmaster) and the tenon was machined off, then into the Bridgeport and the flat section for the clamp surface machined followed by drilling and tapping the holes ready to accept the upper section. The wrench uses high tensile M8 button head screws to hold the two parts together and this should give me more than enough clamping pressure without fear of ripping screws out. In fact I usually just nip the screws up so they do not deform or damage the part being held.