Firing Pins

The thing about firing pins is you ideally need one as a sample if you are going to make a replacement, if however half the pin is missing and what is left was a less than perfect copy it is time to start from scratch.

So here it is, a dummy top firing pin for a Laurona O/U shotgun that actually fits, now I have to make the final item. CNC comes in handy at this point however a sliding head machine would be even nicer.

It always makes me smile when people ask me what I do for a living and reply ‘WOW – that must be interesting’ Well yes it is always interesting however it is not always glamorous and I often find myself having to make small items for rifles or shotguns or most recently revolvers.

Which reminds me, I need to make a universal action wrench for revolvers as I originally designed the one I use for rifle work so it had to be large, robust and capable of taking a short length of scaffold pole over the end. Yes, I did say scaffold pole and believe me when I say you have not lived until you have had to resort to undercutting the barrel where it fits against the receiver and you still needed a 4′ length of pipe and a fair amount of weight to get it to unscrew. The Mosin Nagant and Enfield variants can be notoriously tight and you really must use the correctly sized wrench if you are not to distort the receiver on some rifles.

So the wrench design, well a length of 30,0mm  Bright Mild Steel (EN1) is fine for the main handle and a length of 30,0mm x  12,5mm flat EN3 is fine for the top clamp. Add some leather for the faces and a series of holes with the lower tapped M8 should cover most applications I will ever look at. The temporary tenon is because I want to profile the handle on the CNC and it is currently set up with a collet chuck. Given the current state of my back I reckon it is easier to stick the bar stock in a 3 jaw on the smaller lathe, turn to 25,0mm diameter and I can then pop it into the big lathe and profile the handle with ease.  Yes I know it is a bit posh to have a nicely shaped handle however this wrench should see me out and I plan on doing this for a good few years yet so I might as well make it look and feel nice. I might even blue it when finished 🙂

Why the choice of EN1 and EN3 BMS? Well it is what I have on the rack so I may as well use it. I could have used stainless however that is just way to shiny and my choice of materials should be more than ample for this particular application.

The colours are for you the reader with the sort of washed out brownish red being the leather pads.

The drawing serves as a reference however I can flip it by 180 degrees, remove the dimensions and milled section and convert it to DXF format which means I can then run it through another programme and then upload it to the Harrison which will do the profiling whilst I watch with a cup of coffee in one hand. Actually I doubt I will have made the coffee by the time it is finished!

Once profiled I will bung it back in a 3 jaw, machine the tenon off and it is ready for the milling and drilling operations.

About all I need now is the leather strips, the Viking is currently flatly refusing to donate one of her handbags however I am sure she will come round to my way of thinking, especially as I know she is looking at another SOWR…

2 Replies to “Firing Pins”

  1. Hi, I don’t suppose by any chance you have a set of firing pins for a Laurona eibar 90? Thanks , Paul Hartley.

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